Last weekend we headed down to Shimoda for what I realized was my first time in more than 10 years. We stayed at Kurhaus Ishibashi Ryokan, a 130-year-old spot in Rendaiji that happened to be absolutely empty due to a sudden group cancellation. Nothing in the area—not even food—but the atmosphere was incredible. It's the kind of place where ghosts would live, and probably do. They carved a tunnel through the mountain to get at the hot springs. And that 15-year-old Metal Slug game works perfectly.

I'd only ever done this one hiking all the way down from Amagi. The easiest way is actually to take the bus up to Mizudare and walk down. Me being an idiot, we naturally did this in reverse.

Some lady just kept standing in front of my camera ...